Sewing with stretchy fabric can be a bit tricky if you’re used to working with traditional woven fabrics, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be an enjoyable and rewarding process. Stretchy fabrics, also known as knit fabrics, are made from fibers that have a natural ability to stretch, such as spandex, jersey, and lycra. These fabrics are commonly used for making activewear, t-shirts, leggings, dresses, and more. If you want to sew with stretchy fabrics and achieve a professional finish, here’s a step-by-step guide.
Materials You’ll Need:
Stretchy Fabric: Popular choices for stretchy fabrics include jersey, spandex, cotton blends, or lycra. Choose fabric based on the garment you’re making and the amount of stretch you need.
Stretch Needles: These are specialized needles designed for stretchy fabric. They have a ballpoint tip that helps prevent snags and runs in the fabric.
Thread: Use polyester or nylon thread for stretchy fabric, as cotton thread can break or become too rigid when the fabric stretches.
Sewing Machine: A regular sewing machine will work, but a serger (overlock machine) is ideal for working with knits and stretch fabrics as it can sew and finish the edges in one step.
Pins or Fabric Clips: For securing fabric pieces in place while sewing.
Sewing Clips: These can be useful for holding stretchy fabrics together, as pins may cause distortion in the fabric.
Step 1: Choose the Right Stretch Needle and Thread
Before you begin sewing, it’s important to use the correct tools. A stretch needle has a rounded tip that prevents it from piercing and damaging the fibers of the stretchy fabric. It also helps avoid skipped stitches and helps the fabric stretch with the seam.
Thread choice is also crucial. Use a polyester or nylon thread as they have some stretch to them and will move with the fabric. Avoid using cotton thread, as it doesn’t stretch and can snap when the fabric is pulled.
Step 2: Cut and Prepare the Fabric
When working with stretchy fabric, it’s important to cut your pieces carefully. Use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter to ensure clean edges, as knit fabrics can stretch out of shape easily.
Stretchy fabrics can easily be distorted during cutting, so make sure to lay the fabric flat and secure it with pins or fabric clips. Always remember to cut your fabric pieces with the stretch direction in mind, ensuring that you don’t accidentally cut against the stretch. This will ensure your garment fits properly and stretches where it needs to.
Step 3: Set Up Your Sewing Machine
To sew stretchy fabric, you’ll need to adjust your sewing machine settings:
Stitch Type: Use a zigzag stitch, a stretch stitch, or a ballpoint needle stitch for stretchy fabrics. These types of stitches will allow the fabric to stretch without the seams breaking. A straight stitch is not recommended for stretch fabrics, as it can cause the seams to break or rip when the fabric stretches.
Stitch Length: Set the stitch length to a medium or slightly longer stitch, about 2.5mm to 3mm. A longer stitch allows the fabric to stretch without causing the stitches to pop.
Tension: Adjust the tension on your sewing machine best mini sewing machine to a medium setting. Too tight of tension can cause the fabric to bunch up, while too loose can make the stitches weak.
Step 4: Pin and Sew the Fabric
Once your machine is set up, it’s time to sew the fabric. It’s important to avoid pulling the fabric as you sew, as this can cause distortion. Let the machine feed the fabric through naturally.
To start, position the fabric pieces right sides together and pin or clip them in place. Be sure to use stretch fabric pins or fabric clips to avoid leaving holes or marks in the fabric. If you’re sewing a curved or angled seam, make sure to use a gentle curve, as sharp angles can cause puckering.
Sew with a steady pace, and be mindful of the fabric’s stretch. A zigzag stitch allows the fabric to maintain its flexibility, so take your time and go slowly to make sure your stitches are even. If you are working with a serger or overlock machine, this will trim and finish the fabric edges at the same time.
Step 5: Finish the Seams
After sewing the main seams, finishing the edges is an important step. Stretch fabrics tend to fray or roll up at the edges, so using a serger or overlocker is the most efficient way to finish seams. If you don’t have a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch along the raw edges or a French seam for a more polished finish.
For knit fabrics, it’s essential to ensure the seams are stretchable. Use a stretchable finishing technique like a stretch binding or coverstitch to finish the edges, allowing the garment to maintain its flexibility.
Step 6: Press the Seams
Unlike woven fabrics, stretchy fabrics should be pressed carefully to avoid damaging the fabric. Set your iron to a low or medium heat, and always use a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric to prevent burns or scorching. Do not pull or stretch the fabric while pressing, as this can cause the fabric to lose its shape. Instead, use the iron to gently press the seams flat.
Step 7: Try on the Garment
Once you’ve finished sewing, try on your garment to check for fit and comfort. Stretch fabrics have a unique ability to mold to your body shape, so ensure that the seams allow the fabric to stretch and move with you. Make any adjustments if necessary.
Conclusion
Sewing with stretchy fabric can be challenging at first, but with the right tools and techniques, it can become a seamless and enjoyable experience. By using the correct needle, adjusting your sewing machine settings, and using appropriate stitches and finishes, you can create professional-looking garments and accessories that move and stretch with you. With some practice, sewing stretchy fabrics will become second nature, opening up a whole new world of possibilities for making comfortable, stylish clothes.